Sharia el-Muizz, Islamic Cairo
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk.
Admission: E£6 for each complex.

Bayt el-Suhaymi
Behind an unassuming façade is one of Cairo’s finest houses, Bayt el-Suhaymi. Dating from the Ottoman era, it offers a glimpse of the lifestyle of well-to-do merchants during the 16th and 17th centuries. The maze of rooms on different levels feature an ornate first-floor harem with mashrabiyya screens overlooking the garden and an impressive ground-floor reception room where men were entertained with music and dancers.

19 Haret Darb el-Asfar, Islamic Cairo
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600.
Admission: E£20.

Citadel (el-Qal’a)
Nothing remains of Salah ad-Din’s original 12th-century palace but the mosques and palaces atop this limestone outcrop reflect 700 years of Cairo history. The fortifications were first built to repel the Crusaders and became the royal residence for sultans well into the 19th century. The Mohammed Ali Mosque, with its huge central dome and four semi-domes, towers over the city. The enclosure also contains the Mosque of al-Nasir, Yusuf’s Well and several small museums. The views over Cairo from the Citadel are outstanding.

Islamic Cairo
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700 (October-May), 0800-1800 (June-September).
Admission: E£20.

Gayer-Anderson House (Bayt el-Kritliya)
The Gayer-Anderson House was the home of an English doctor to the royal family, who lived here from 1935-42. He restored two 16th-century houses, joined them together and filled them with exquisite decoration, furniture and oriental objects. The mashrabiyya-screened women’s gallery overlooks the magnificent reception room with its central fountain, arguably the finest in Cairo.

4 Midan Ahmed Ibn Tulun, Islamic Cairo
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700, closed Fri during midday prayer (1100-1300).
Admission: E£16.

Ibn Tulun Mosque
Of all the mosques in Cairo, this is the one that should not be missed. Completed in 879, it is the oldest intact mosque in the city. The huge structure, built of mud-brick and wood, covers 2.4 hectares (six acres) but is simple in decor. It is a unique example in Cairo of classical Islamic architecture inspired by Iraqi models, having been built by Ibn Tulin, who was sent to rule Cairo by the caliph of Baghdad. The pointed arches are the first of their kind. The views from the top of the spiral minaret are magnificent.

Sharia el-Salibah, Islamic Cairo
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1800.
Admission: E£6.

Islamic Art Museum
This museum houses one of the world’s largest and finest collections of Islamic art, dating from the seventh to the 19th centuries. The rooms contain carved woodwork and columns, mosaic fountains, metalwork and other architectural exhibits salvaged from crumbling mosques and mausoleums throughout Egypt. Some of the finest pieces are located in the central hall.

Midan Ahmad Mahir (Bab el-Khalq), Port Said Street, Islamic Cairo
Opening hours: Sat-Thurs 0900-1600, Fri 0900-1100 and 1400-1600.
Admission: E£16.

Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan
Covering 7900 sq meters (85,000 sq ft), this is one of the largest mosques in the world and the finest early Mamluk structure in Cairo. It was built between 1356 and 1363 and encompasses a stunning courtyard, four madrassas (theology schools) and a mausoleum flanked by huge doors. Visitors should go in the morning when the sun lights up the dark mausoleum.

Sharia el-Qal’a, Islamic Cairo
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700 (until 1800 in summer).
Admission: E£12.

Further Distractions:

Wikala of al-Ghouri

A wikala, also known as a caravanserai, is a medieval merchants’ hostel that catered for traveling traders. They stabled their animals on the ground floor, slept in the rooms above and haggled with their clients in the courtyard. This is the best preserved of the handful of Cairo’s remaining wikalas. The stables now house artists’ studios, while the courtyard is used for theater and concerts. Around the corner is the striking striped al-Ghouri complex, with its mosque-madrassa and mausoleum. Part of the mausoleum now serves as a cultural center, offering twice-weekly Sufi dancing performances.